Gough Island History Excursion

As mentioned last week we were hoping to make our way to The Glen. The location of the first scientific base which was established in 1956.
This week I am delighted to report that we successfully made our way to this historical sight with relative ease, and were able to enjoy this remarkable opportunity to delve into Gough's history and further explore this incredible Mountain in the Sea.


19th January- Karen and Sylvain departed the morning for Goneydale where they spent the day marking out Tristan Albatross nests for this years breeding season. A large number of the birds are already incubating eggs and will be monitored regularly. This will mean frequenting Goneydale for monitoring purposes. Something I wish to assist with.
It was agreed that they would spend the evening there and Jack and myself would join up with them the following morning.

Goneydale

20th January- Jack and myself departed the base at around 05:00 en route to Goneydale to meet up with Karen and Sylvain. This is significant as Jack was working night shift and only finished up at 03:00, and myself, well I just couldn't sleep. We were up at 04:00 to finish packing and getting the last couple things together before departing.
We hoped to be at Goneydale by 08:00 at the latest, but with Jack leading the way at a ferocious pace we managed the walk in a little over 2 hours. This with our fully loaded packs. Although I am not certain on the distance this still seemed pretty impressive.
Upon our arrival we were greeted by Sylvain who had only just woken up. So our timing was pretty much spot on.
We then got the last couple things we needed from the container and were on our way again at about 08:00.
This time Karen and Sylvain had managed to get more accurate information on which route to take and we set off down a ridge into the valley so we could follow the river toward the coast. We were all tremendously excited and ready to go. Not knowing what we were in for just added to that feeling.

The route to The Glen

We made our way down the ridge to where we had to access the river which we needed to follow. This was not as easy as it may sound, as most points of access to the river were too high and too steep. So we spent close on an hour searching for an access point. Eventually Jack's keen eye traced a path down another ridge toward the main river that we had to get to. But this meant crossing over a smaller river which was also made difficult by steep drops. Faced with this problem Sylvain set about investigating various access points that were pointed out from a higher vantage point. Eventually we found a relatively easy point where we could descend toward the river we were required to cross to reach the ridge we needed to take toward the primary river.

View from the top. Hags Tooth in the distance.

Once this was achieved it was relatively easy going. We arrived at the river we had to follow for the rest of the journey and once again had to find a way down to the waters edge. Fortunately the height of the vertical edges dropping off to the river were more manageable and we were able to access the water with some team work.
Once on the river it was a combination of boulder hopping and pushing through thick vegetation high up on the river banks to bypass the many waterfalls we encountered. But moving from the river up and down the banks was never easy due to the steep and slippery slopes which bank the river. Clearly, many many years of rapid flowing water has carved out a deep trench which the river now flows, and now makes for a challenging hike.

Looking up the valley from where we came.

We continued on our way and at around 14:30 we caught sight of an Antarctic Turn. Our first indication that we must be very close, as they nest amongst the rocks close to the sea shore.
A little further down we heard the distinctive call of the Rockhopper penguins and soon we startled one of the seals which were basking in the sun. Yet, all this told us was that we were now close to the coast, but were we at The Glen?! We soon breathed a sigh of relief when we saw a old pipe running along the banks of the river.
We had finally arrived! We made it!

Arrival at The Glen

Further down the river we walked toward the beach where we were soon startled and amazed at the sheer size of the fully grown elephant seal bull that was basking in the warmth of the suns rays. Seems to be par for the course when Jack and I find an elephant seal. Forever being surprised by them!

Elephant seal bull.

We were also treated to seeing a young elephant seal pup as well as an adult cow, and another large bull making his way out into the water.
This amongst the masses of fur seals and rock hopper penguins.

Elephant seal pup

We explored the beach and examined the remains of the old base and the caves that the sealers had carved out hundreds of years ago. We were all so awestruck at what we were seeing.
The greatest sense of irony was found in seeing the seals now living in the caves that were carved out by the people that used to hunt them for their fur.
Amazing to see how nature has regained control in our absence, and again dominates the landscapes that we changed. How they have settled in to live amongst the remains of our impact.

Sealers caves

The contrast of the old base remains against the surrounds

Engraving from G5 in 1960

Exploring the surrounds

21st January- 09:00 Tents are taken down, breakfast of biscuits and Milo eaten and we are off again.
Fortunately the trip back up was proving to be easier than the trip down Perhaps cause we knew which route to take and didn't have to spend time searching for access points.
This meant we were able to rest more frequently and take full advantage of the fantastic weather that we had over the course of our trip which made the scenery just jump to life around us.

Relaxing on the trip back.

One of the many amazing waterfalls.

At around 13:00 we arrived back at the container in Goneydale. Pleasantly surprised by the time we made in getting out of the valley, we sat and enjoyed a relaxed lunch of pilchards and provitas. Gourmet food in the field.

By 14:30 we were on our way again for the final stretch from Goneydale to the base where we knew a warm shower and hot meal would awaited our return. We arrived safely at the base at 17:30 where we then regaled our story to the rest of the team over a warm meal and chocolate cake.
Rounded off another epic adventure.


There is already talk of the next big trip. Possibly a 3 day trip to the highest peak on the island. Edinburgh peak. Need to make this happen before things get too cold, wet and windy, and we are still treated to spells of sunny weather. By the sounds of things this will take place in February. In the meanwhile I will have to satisfy my craving for mountain air by climbing Tafelkoppie and Mount Zeus as well as finding time to assist Karen and Sylvain up in Goneydale.

Lets wait and see what happens between now and next week.